Arlington Historical Society Textile Survey
The Society recently undertook a survey of its textile
collection. The Society was fortunate to work with
textile expert Julia Brennan. Three days were spent
reviewing a portion of the collection. Julia has worked
in the field of textile conservation for over twenty-five
years. She serves private collectors, galleries,
museums, and institutions. During her five years as
Assistant Conservator for Exhibitions at the Textile
Museum in Washington, she prepared over 30 exhibits,
and was the guest curator of a contemporary textile
show on Faith Ringgold. Julia frequently lectures to
historical societies and collector groups on the care
and display of textiles and costumes. She does regular
contract work and maintenance of textile collections for
The John F. Kennedy Center for Performing Arts, The
Daughters of the American Revolution Museum,
George Washington’s Mount Vernon and Smithsonian
Institution Museums.
The following is from the report from Julia to the Board
of Directors.
- The Society has over 4,000 physical artifacts in
the collection. At the Hume School site, there are
about 450 historic textile accessions. (More in overall
number as some accessions have multiple items.) The
collection is a wide assortment, representing personal
clothing, clothing accessories, household and
decorative textiles, flags, hooked rugs, and quilts. The
collection ranges from the mid-1800’s up to the 1960’s.
The largest part of the collection is women’s, men’s,
and children’s clothing and uniforms, numbering about
240 accessions. A majority of the personal clothing
dates from the late-1800’s through the mid-1900’s.
Overall, the textiles are a relatively large collection for a
small organization.
- Most of the textiles have been donated by Arlington
families, and members of the Historical Society. Some
of the textiles have provenance to older Arlington
families and founders of the Society. A majority of them
are unsystematic donations, from multiple Arlington residents over the past fifty years. Most of the textile
items bear only the provenance that they were donated
by Arlingtonians. On a piece by piece basis, some of
the textiles are interesting and valuable historical
examples of their type, but they do not represent any
particular Arlington historical event or associations
beyond local provenance.
- The three day on-site assessment of the textile
collection was conducted from October 20th to 22nd,
2008. A third of the collection was examined from a
conservation point of view. In addition, overall storage
housings, materials, environmental conditions, and
storage space were evaluated. The purpose of the
survey was an evaluation of the overall conditions of
the textile collection in order to establish a working
baseline and blueprint for future preservation efforts.
- The survey covered a random sampling of the
collection which was selected to represent the overall
collection. The survey attempted to examine a range of
conditions - from textiles in very poor condition to those
in good condition.
- The collection overall is in fair condition. There has
been minimal professional collections care over the last
sixty years and at least two significant infestations.
These factors combine to put the overall collection at
risk from pests, environment, exposure, poor storage
and handling. Based on the condition sampling of the
collection, about 40% of the textiles need some sort of
treatment, and 13% are in very poor condition and
require extensive treatment. A systemized plan to
properly upgrade the care of collections is a big
challenge. It is particularly difficult without trained and
consistent staff, and the commitment of adequate
funds. In short, the responsible stewardship of a fairly
large textile collection is a challenge and a potential
burden to the Society.
- It is a large collection considering the size of the
site and storage area. The current storage space
upstairs appears too small to properly accommodate
the entire textile collection properly housed, along with
the other artifacts currently stored there.
- The collection is in need of a serious commitment
to a systemized rehousing plan, and a long-term care
and maintenance plan. All the textiles need rehousing,
monitoring and reorganization in order to augment
overall conditions.
- The textile collection is at risk from environmental
factors.
- The most distinctive problem with the textile
collection is simply a lack of care. There appears to be
no organized program of collections maintenance in
place. There is no trained collections manager charged
with the tasks of maintaining and monitoring the
collection. There is no professionally trained collections
manager who can address the overall needs. In
addition, there has not been much attention devoted to
the interpretation or study of the textile collection. This
means that it has been left alone, undisturbed, with
undetected problems.
- The designated storage area for textiles and other
artifacts appears over crowded. Large boxes are
needed for delicate and fragile 19th century dresses
and bodices, uniforms and quilts. Fragile items will
need to be housed individually. Additional padding to
prevent permanent creasing and splitting will expand
the size of the textiles and, consequently, the overall
storage needs. Proper rehousing will spread the overall
collection out into more boxes, of different sizes, as
well as some rolls. In addition, there needs to be a
handling or work area adjacent to or within the storage
area.
- Systemized rehousing requires a detailed plan,
budget and the commitment of the Board and at least
two people for implementation. It is time consuming and
exacting work. Many items need to be carefully
vacuumed to remove insect carcasses and dust. Cloth
accession tags and registration/catalogue records
should be fully updated in the process. ID photographs
of the item should be placed in sleeves on the outside
of the boxes for easy identification.
Recommendations
- The most critical first step is to continue a
comprehensive Integrated Pest Management Policy
and tackle current infestation.
- The second most important step is the
implementation of a sound Collections Maintenance
Policy. In order to implement a collections action plan,
it is advisable to consider hiring a collections manager,
with experience and training for a period of a year.
- As part of the Collections Maintenance Policy, the
first task is to properly rehouse the collection of 450
items.
- A first step in the Collections Maintenance Policy is
a thorough cleaning of all the storage and display
spaces. Floors need to be cleaned with Lysol and
alcohol to combat the infestation. This first overall
cleaning will take time to do well. But after that,
maintenance of these spaces will be more
manageable.
- Increase the signage and education of visitors so
that conservation concerns are part of the visitor
experience. Audiences are much more sympathetic to
limited access and security if they are involved in the
process.
- For long-term preservation, it is recommended to
explore the option of off site storage. If the collections
could be transferred to a fully operative storage facility,
the daily care burden would be lifted from the Society.
- The deaccessioning of artifacts needs to be
considered as well.
- Make a five year and ten year projected plan for
treatment priorities.
- Devote curatorial expertise to study and publish
catalogues of significant aspects of the collections.
- Allocate sufficient funds to develop acceptable
conservation standards for the exhibits.
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