in their own unique way – with textiles of course!
—Julia, Kaitlyn & Lauren
My November Trip to Taiwan: “Embracing Cultural Materials Conservation in the Tropics”
I recently attended a Southeast Asian regional conservation forum in Taiwan, and wanted to share some of my experience with you. Here’s a peek at “Embracing Cultural Materials Conservation in the Tropics”–and some of my textile-icious sights and sounds!
Connections, Camaraderie, Conservation
With colleagues Joy and Yao, from the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, and Jacinta from Australia
Attracting 100 participants from Asia, and a large contingent from Taiwan, the November 2015 forum was an energetic, diverse, and informative gathering.
Our organization APTCCARN (Asia Pacific Tropical Climate Conservation Art Research Network) is unique –a spirit of congeniality means attendees get to know one another, and build connections in this hot sticky region.
Enjoying the festive gods who entertained our group.
Whether from Hong Kong, Philippines, Indonesia, Singapore, Taiwan, or Thailand – everyone shared the common challenges of trying to preserve paintings, wood, drawings, textiles and metal with high humidity, insects, and monsoon weather patterns. Much of APTCCARN’s attendees’ work is community driven; conferring with elders, and clergy, and indigenous leaders, and small rural museum directors. The context, soil, climate, religion, language all shape the way conservation projects are undertaken. So, everyone joined in a spirit of mutual respect, recognizing that the cultural context is paramount in our daily work of preserving the past for the future.
One of the highlights was staying at the famous Grand Hotel, in itself a historic site, dating from the 1950’s. A symbol of Kuomintang power, it is said that Madame Chiang built this southern branch hotel as a resort for her high society and international guests. Towering red lipstick columns run the length of a monumental Chinese palace-style structure. Every rafter is covered in polychrome and gold paintings of dragons and auspicious symbols, reminding me of the proliferation of architectural painting in Bhutan. Sumptuous old world style of huge lobbies, smooth redwood floors that shone from 60 years of polishing, and Ming style furnishings. The hotel is a ‘grande dame’ of Chinese extravagance, and now in need of our conservation and restoration assistance.
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Many famous people stayed here – the first State visitor was the Shah of Iran, followed by President Eisenhower in 1960, the King and Queen of Thailand in 1963 during their World Tour, Nelson Mandela, and a young Elizabeth Taylor.
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And finally, no trip to Taiwan can be covered without showing some food!!! It’s the MOST foodie country I’ve ever visited.
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- The MOST…
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- …foodie place…
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- …I’ve ever been!
Wishing you a happy Christmas and joyous holidays,
—Julia and the team of Caring for Textiles
Why we never run out of steam!
Here’s a story on a workhorse of our studio – our beloved Jiffy steamer!
Ahoy there, Mateys!–Part 2 of Let’s Hear it for the Boys!
The second of Julia’s two three-part* series dedicated to the gentleman.
If you missed my first post on ‘man-centric’ textiles – you can read it here. Here are a few more of my favorites:
*NOTE from Julia: I found so many great guys in our collection, I’m planning a third installment of this blog…stay tuned!
Sailors’ Woolies (Woolwork)
This intricate needlework from the 19th century was made by a sailor, perhaps as a family gift or to commemorate his time at sea. The entire picture is made of thread – even the fine rigging and the sea birds hanging in the wind. These pieces are very sought after, and I have worked on two large collections.[Best_Wordpress_Gallery id=”23″ gal_title=”Sailors Woolies”]
Japanese WWII Souvenir Flag
Signed by family and comrades for good luck going to battle, this silk souvenir flag featuring the Circle of the Sun took more than 200 hours to conserve.
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- Before…
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- …and after.
Battle of Mobile Bay Naval Pennant, circa 1864
Eleven cotton applique stars feature on this wool bunting pennant belonging to Admiral Franklin Buchanan – the only full admiral in the Confederate Navy. After testing and wet cleaning, a full support of lightweight, sheer dark blue silk was added, being the least intrusive and reversible method to stabilize this amazing piece of history. The Battle of Mobile is commemorated in a US Postal stamp in 2015.
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- Mobile pennant, before…
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- …and after.
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- The commemorative stamp.
Just Hello
This beautiful WWI ‘returning home’ memento features a printed poem on silk showing Lady Liberty and the Doughboy, with an American flag below, all hand-stitched into a little love pillow. This keepsake was in very poor condition, with much of the silk poem and flag pieces frayed and hanging like spaghetti. The conservation process involved many steps – taking apart the pieces, re-aligning the torn splits and silks, applying the pieces to a new silk support using a reversible adhesive, surface cleaning the pillow mount, encapsulating it in protective sheer netting, fabricating a rigid archival mount, and re-assembling it.
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- Just Hello…before….
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- …and after.
Civil War Doctor’s Kepi
This Civil War cap has a thick shiny patent leather brim and very tattered interior. We used sheer polyester to encapsulate and stabilize the existing lining.
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- Civil War kepi (inside)…before…
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- …and after.
Never ‘Ad It So Good
A WWII painted leather A-2 bomber jacket, 8th Army Airforce, commemorates its owner’s 35 bombing missions. We cleaned the leather and corrosion on metal components, humidified, repaired tears with adhesive supports, and fabricated a custom half-torso, for a shadow box display. Jane, looking very retro ‘40s herself, holds the jacket aloft like a lollipop.
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- Bomber jacket front….
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- …and back.
I hope you enjoyed our visit to the boys’ club so far…and stay tuned for part 3! Tell us about your favorite man-centric textile by commenting below.
Let’s hear it for the boys!
Ahoy there, Mateys! – Part 1
Often, when we think of textiles, we think of fashion or women’s handwork. But in many cultures, it is the men who are the master weavers, dyers, block printers, and high-end tailors. So this two-part post is dedicated to the gentlemen! Just for you, I have selected some truly male-oriented textiles, and although not necessarily made by men, they are worn and prized by them. Sad to say, many of these textiles are from war and conquest, a field almost completely dominated by men until the 21st century. Anchors aweigh!
A True Family Treasure
This World War I Doughboy uniform was made for my client’s father when he was a wee one in 1917, by his mother, so that he would look just like his papa who was serving in Europe. It is a lovingly made, exact replica of a soldier’s uniform, just smaller in size. Sweet!
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- Doughboy Before
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- Doughboy After
Perry’s Victory on Lake Erie, 1813
Made of printed cotton in 1913, this banner was printed to celebrate Perry’s heroic role in the War of 1812. And there’s a beer too!
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Erin Go Bragh Standard
This battalion flag came from my client’s great grandfather who fought with the Irish Battalion, Tennessee, during the Civil War. Our work involved flattening, extensive cleaning, flattening, full lining and fill for all the holes. Then we added an overlay of protective netting and conservation mounting.
[Best_Wordpress_Gallery id=”20″ gal_title=”Erin Go Bragh Standard”]
Commemorative Banner of the Great White Fleet 1907-1909
This large banner made of a composite ‘textile,’ was manufactured in Japan as a souvenir for American sailors in port. It cost about $30. Constructed with gold wrapped thread embroidery, the work features a very ‘oriental’ styled eagle, silk satin embroidery, paper backing and gold couched surface work. The banner features a painting of the fleet entering Tokyo Harbor (with Mount Fuji behind), images of President Theodore Roosevelt (center), flanked by Admirals Sperry (right) and Evans (left), and a sailor encircled in an embroidered life ring (below). Flanking the sailor are gunner’s mate crossed cannons, and cannon balls. The whole kit and caboodle in one textile, ready for framing!
[Best_Wordpress_Gallery id=”22″ gal_title=”Great White Fleet”]
The Technological Significance of Textiles
Today I’m thrilled to share with you an amazing article by critically acclaimed author Virginia Postrel. An exploration of the technological significance of textiles, Virginia examines fabric’s cultural importance – whether buried in antiquity, hidden in our language, or glamorized in glossy periodicals.
It’s a fascinating read that is sure to leave your head spinning! Read on…
A Final PS from Jakarta: Traditional Batik Making Lives On
Reflections From A Long Time Admirer And Importer Of Fine Batiks
I first met Bill Royer as a child in Southeast Asia. Bill was enchanted with the hand crafts and skills found in batik making and basketry, carving, lacquer, farming, cooking, food, clothing and the many rural ceremonies centered around religion and seasons. For many years, Bill visited small batik making ateliers in Java, and imported contemporary batiks back to his marvelous, eclectic Brentwood Store, Imports East. My recent missives from conserving batik in Java inspired these reminiscences from him… and I’m pleased to say much has not changed. Read his message to me below.
Julia,
Belated thanks for all your blogs… They reveal how very far you’ve reached since we first met you all those years ago back in Chiang Mai, and later Indonesia. Amazing how broad and deep is your experience and expertise in the textile universe, extending half way around the globe.
Your ‘becoming batik’ carries me back to my fascination with that intriguing way of applying color and life to plain white cloth. That intricately formed copper tjap carefully dipped in heated wax—at just the right temperature. Carefully lining up the margins. Thump, thump to coax the last drop into the thirsty cloth. Unhurried. Steady, like a metronome, without any appearance of effort. Just the flowing rhythm, going back through years of apprenticing—and tradition.
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- Traditional batik making
Oh yes, the sweet and smoky aromas in those dirt floor sheds. After swirling the wax-laden cloth in the dying vats, drying it over bamboo poles, scraping off the excess wax, then plunging the cloth into cauldrons of boiling water, more drying. Back to the waxers for another long round. And another.
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I just had to figure out a way to organize and transport lots of this lively sweet smelling fabric back home and keep this threatened art form alive. Glad to hear that modernization has not yet pushed out the food and cigarette stall vendors you see everywhere. Have the little kitchen sheds at the back of the houses survived? I remember as clearly as last week food preparation beginning at first light’s cockcrow. Sound of pumped water tumbling into clanging empty pails. Kindling snapping as it heats up chunks of charcoaled wood. Sharp odor of new fire’s drifting smoke. Dogs scuffling, occasionally a quick little yip. Someone just lit a kretek (a clove cigarette). Little chicks peeping after their squabbling moms; other moms ordering little girls to their cooking and cleaning tasks. Joking and musical laughter…
Looking Through The Eye of a Needle
Let’s get to the point…
Needles are a textile conservator’s best friend. We stab them through wool, tunnel them through tapestry warps, and tenderly ply them through lace and silk. Needles are our partners in constructing ladders and herringbones, our tools for figure-eights, and our means of tacking down loose embroidery.
Archeological evidence suggests that needles have been in use since the Middle Stone Age, with the earliest known needle found in South Africa dating back 61,000 years. Sharpened bamboo, bone, wood, and ivory have all served as needles, and Native Americans even crafted them from the agave plant. In the 13th Century, the needle with an eye arrived in China, and when Columbus was roaming the ‘New World’ in 1496, Leonardo da Vinci made an apparatus to point needles. 350 years later, the Singer brothers invented the sewing machine (1845).
For every type of damage, cloth and repair task, there is a specific stitch requiring a specific needle. A No 12 is the smallest and is sometimes held with pincers. The tapestry needle is dull and has an eye large to accommodate wool yarn. A curved or surgeon’s needle is super sharp (so it can easily stitch through skin) and is a challenge to use. The beading needle is long and very thin, and there are straws, betweens, sharps, milliners… I could go on!
Using the Surgeon’s Needle
Learning New Stitches
Everywhere I go I search for needles… good ones are so difficult to find. Needles made of platinum or those that are gold plated are preferred, as they resist corrosion. I’ve found some excellent vintage needles in Asian fabric markets in Europe and the UK, and excellent handmade needles can be found in Japan.
How do we store needles? Stuck into a pincushion, of course. The ubiquitous strawberry pincushion is a cleaning, polishing, and therapeutic utensil filled with emery, like the sandy board for filing fingernails. Emery is a combination of aluminum oxide and iron oxides, giving the needle a little sharpening and cleaning each time it’s stored – just like a proper pincushion should!
For a fabulous summer read – Elizabeth Wayland Barber, Women’s Work: The First 20,000 Years; Women, Cloth, and Society in Early Times (1995)
Making Fashion Pop
The intersection of disposable clothing and pop art.
by Lauren Klamm
Production of paper clothing began with a 1966 American Scott Paper Company promotion offering an inexpensive paper dress, and quickly become a popular fashion novelty, with a large number of clothing items such as men’s vests, bridal gowns and even underwear. Major retail outlets such as I. Magnin and Abraham & Straus set up clothing boutiques dedicated to paper clothing; even politicians joined in the action with Romney, Nixon and Kennedy all promoting their 1968 campaigns with free paper dresses.
It wasn’t until the late 60s that Campbell’s Soup offered the movement’s most iconic piece – the Souper Dress. Inspired by Andy Warhol’s 1962 “Campbell’s Soup Cans,” this dress combines the instantly recognizable soup graphic with the decade’s most ephemeral fashion fad.
Campbell’s Souper Dress
Campbell’s Souper Dress ad from 1968
For two soup labels, $1 and your dress size, Campbell’s mailed the paper Souper Dress flat, ready to be pressed lightly for wearing. A series of yellow rings at the bottom of the dress allow the wearer to trim to a custom length, without having to finish the hem.
Our challenge was to present the dress as if being worn. To give the illusion of a body, we needed to create a “floating” half-form. Using foss shape, a soft, felt-like material that hardens and shrinks with steam and heat, we were able to create an invisible female form to give the dress structure and display its unique shape.
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- Campbell’s Souper Dress Label
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- Loosely Pinned Foss Before Steaming
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- After Steaming, Foss Retains Shape Over a Female Dress Form
To maintain the illusion of being the dress being worn, the interior form required extensive trimming to ensure it was invisible to the viewer. The form also needed to accommodate showing the original interior label.
Side View With Floating Form
Rare-earth Magnets Used for Mounting
June 4, 2015, shared by reader Jamie duPont:
Julia I took this at the Palm Desert Art museum last year – – not sure if it is paper or not – but loved it!
Mounting posed a unique challenge. Traditionally, fabric would be stitched directly to the mount, but with this paper dress, tearing was a concern. Instead we used rare-earth magnets applied to the inside of the finished form that correspond with magnets on the back of the stretcher mount, keeping the dress safely in place.
It was deeply satisfying to be able to work on this iconic piece of Sixties history. We were honored to give form to this unique piece of life imitating art.
Sources:
http://onthisdayinfashion.com/?p=12392
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_clothing
http://www.glamoursplash.com/2008/11/disposable-paper-dresses-of-1967.html
http://www.vintageconnection.net/PaperDresses.htm
Farewell, adieu Sam-pay ketamu lagi Museum Tekstil Jakarta!
A life-time supply of batik plasters!
My so cool and eloquent MC Dyan–perfectly dressed in cowboy parang to toast the us embassy collection and project.
Hats off to a great project and stay here in Jakarta! Ending on a wonderfully high note, 75 textile lovers attended my Talk Show covering the Conservation of the Iwan Tirta batiks…great turnout, gorgeous batik sarong and attire and brilliant discussion. today! Here I am with my so cool and eloquent MC Dyan–perfectly dressed in cowboy parang to toast the us embassy collection and project. Perhaps my most favorite–batik motif plasters–a lifetime supply! 2 days to pack, write reports and say good bye…..I love the museum Tekstil. I’ve made life- long friends, and have been happy to share these stories with you…
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