National Portrait Gallery, Washington DC presents a major exhibition
It’s all about women, in particular the First Ladies!
The new exhibition, curated by Gwendolyn DuBois Shaw, is the largest assembly of First Ladies portraits outside of the White House. The title comes from an 1844 letter written by Julia Gardiner Tyler to her mother after she married President John Tyler. Only 24 years old, Tyler wrote, “I very well know every eye is upon me, my dear mother, and I will behave accordingly.”
I very well know every eye is upon me, my dear mother, and I will behave accordingly.
—Julia Gardiner Tyler, 1844
Organized into 6 sections, the exhibition explores the social and political and personal lives of each of these women. The show is a rich history of portraiture, the details of each sitter’s clothing and jewelry, styles, and personal priorities of each woman at the time.
It was a huge honor for Caring for Textiles to contribute to this exhibit, working on site, fabricating and customizing each of the mannequins to specifically show the style and grace of each dress, and provide appropriate conservation support for long-term display.
Working in the galleries surrounded by the First Ladies, all eyes were upon us as we tucked and tailored each form.
—the Caring for Textiles team
Three first ladies’ dresses are featured — Nancy Reagan’s Galanos sequined and rhinestone-laden gown; Jacqueline Kennedy’s Chez Ninon grey wool day suit; and Michele Obama’s 2017 Milly dress worn for her NPG-commissioned portrait by Amy Sherald.
It is stunning to see Amy Sherald’s monumental portrait of Michele Obama, seated with the graphic full-skirted cotton halter dress by designer Milly, spread around her like a quilt, juxtaposed with a mannequin of the actual dress. In the gallery, they speak to each other, from flat painted surface to three-dimensional dress.
Jacqueline Kennedy’s suit is a classic 1961 Chez Ninon grey tweed wool suit, tailored, simple and elegant. She purchased a lot of clothing from this NYC store, which curated the latest Parisian styles. You can truly picture her wearing this – it is iconic Jackie.
Nancy Reagan was known for her spectacular and classical gowns, and this 1985 James Galanos bespoke evening dress, weighing about 10 pounds in beading, is a showstopper. Elegantly proportioned and columnar, it sparkles in the low lighting of the gallery.
Another incredible garment is Mary Todd Lincoln’s capelet, made of silk ikat with a black lace overlay. One edge is folded back to reveal the inscription of Elizabeth Keckley, Mrs. Lincoln’s Dressmaker who made it.
All the first ladies, as well as some sisters, daughters or companions who served in an official capacity in the WH are represented in a gorgeous variety of paintings, prints, daguerreotypes, miniatures, sculptures, and, yes dresses!
View the entire exhibit here: https://firstladies.si.edu/
Or visit in person, free timed entry passes are available online. Exhibit open until May 23, 2021
https://news.artnet.com/exhibitions/obama-portrait-national-portrait-gallery-1221629
The new CNN series narrated by Robin Wright looks in-depth at six of the First Ladies.
Your photographs are wonderful! Thank you for helping show and care for these treasures.
Awesome work, fantastic story. Thanks for a look behind the scenes
Fabulous! quite a fascinating look behind what’s involved in displaying these First Ladies dresses Cudos to the Caring for Textiles team
Oooh I wish I could see this exhibit live!
Gorgeous, and so interesting! Thank you for sharing, Caring for Textiles!
Lovely work and thanks for sharing your meticulous contribution to history. Beautiful.
Julia, I haven’t been on this site before, is that Kaitlyn on her knees? But just love that white dress you’re folding (shown next to the cape) but then of course, I know it would be fabulous as I is all your work.
I just wish I had contacted you to work on rather valuable and antique Kimono that I had hanging on my bedroom wall and when I moved, had it repaired and “professionally hand” cleaned and all the colors ran when they just dipped it, too bad. I know you’d have done a beautiful job. Live and learn.