lace | Caring For Textiles

Sometimes there is a crystallization, a special synergy in one’s life of work, art, inspiration, friendship, collaboration, beauty, and possibilities…that was Spring 2022 for our CFT team at Hillwood.

Each day a new dress, a journey into Grace Kelly’s elegant, understated style, personal story, and her relationship as muse for Marc Bohan, the designer of the house of Dior. The clothing was in excellent condition, so well cared for by the Palace. (Photo by Hillwood Estate.)

The spring of 2022 was a dream come true for Caring for Textiles—spending our days at Marjorie Merriweather Post’s Hillwood Estate preparing 40 of Princess Grace’s drop-dead gorgeous dresses and outfits for display. Icons of elegant and fun ’60s and ’70s haute couture design were like tactile time traveling through fashion history.

…tactile time traveling through fashion history…

Just the rare opportunity to gently handle and hold these icons was heady enough. Our team—Julia Brennan, Kaitlyn Munro, Katherine Hill McIntyre, and Emilee Koss worked intimately and collaboratively to fit carefully and tailor each mannequin to the dress, becoming skilled at shaping, accentuating, highlighting, and safely supporting each delicate silk, lace, voile, ruffle or tier or cuff.

Every day, we fell in love again…And our knowledge and enthusiasm were feathered by the inspired team at Hillwood, led by the spirited exhibit curator Megan Martinelli.

…shaping, accentuating, highlighting… safely supporting each delicate silk, lace, voile, ruffle or tier or cuff…

Just the rare opportunity to gently handle and hold these icons was heady enough…

The gallery transformed from empty decks and shrouded hangers to platforms full of life, color, and the spirit of Princess Grace.

This special exhibition is presented for the first time in the United States on special loan from the Palace of Monaco. Take a friend or two, tour the exhibition, glorious Hillwood gardens, Mrs. Post’s house, and have lunch at the charming café. There is no other place like this.

Grace of Monaco, Princess in Dior, is open until early January 2023
https://hillwoodmuseum.org/exhibitions/grace-monaco-princess-dior

In closing, here are some of our favorite dresses…

All photos © Caring For Textiles 2022, except the first photo as noted, courtesy of Hillwood Estate.

Written by: Kaitlyn Munro

This darling wedding ensemble was worn by Louise Whitney Whitehurst at her wedding to Walter Leon Stafford in Norfolk, Virginia May 30, 1928. With a matching cloche and art deco style purse. Louise must have been quite a charming bride on her special day.

A very practical dress like this was most likely used in the bride’s regular wardrobe after the wedding. The lovely shade of rose popular in the 20’s lends itself to daily or special occasion wear. The damage to the shoulders of the silk georgette under dress and holes at the shoulders of the lace layer suggests frequent use. Another sign that this dress was worn after the wedding is an area of leftover stitching on the underdress that shows how the pleated layer was moved down to a longer length.

Since the dress is going to be displayed in a museum exhibit on a mannequin, the shoulder damage needed to be addressed and repaired so it would once again be strong enough to support the dress. To accomplish this, a supportive under bodice was created based on a pattern made using measurements of the bodice. This under bodice was then attached to under dress and the damage fragments at the shoulder were stitched down to prevent any further damage.

: Damage to shoulder

: Close-up of shoulder with underbodice support

: Underdress with under bodice support structure.

The cloche arrived at the studio in a flat and crushed state and was brought back to life using a conservation rehydration technique that involved a humidification chamber. The process was closely monitored as the cloche was reshaped.

: Cloche pre-treatment

: Cloche post-treatment

: Couched cording detail on front of purse

: Conservation netting on back of purse

The art deco style couched cord purse was in beautiful condition on the front but the plain silk back had a significant amount of damage. Conservation netting was sewn down to keep the loose threads in place and protect it form any future damage.

It is always so rewarding to see pieces like these come to life again. We can see why Louise chose this outfit to wear on her wedding day!

Silk, Voile, Ruffles, Tiers and Lace Fill Hillwood’s “Grace of Monaco, Princess in Dior” Exhibition …and We Fell in Love Each Day

Sometimes there is a crystallization, a special synergy in one’s life of work, art, inspiration, friendship, collaboration, beauty, and possibilities…that was Spring 2022 for our CFT team at Hillwood.

A Blushing 1920’s Bride