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Our Threads and Needles, Scissors and Pins, Stitched and Snipped Through A Brilliant Year of Textile Conservation and Restoration

January 9, 2023 By Julia Brennan 6 Comments

2022 is a Wrap. Here’s to 2023, and to you—
our wonderful textilian friends!

2022 was peppered with covid, but in between we conserved, surveyed, examined, dressed, and prepped over 200 textiles thanks to our dynamic team of Julia, Kaitlyn, Katherine, Emilee, and Peyton. 3 wedding veils, 12 samplers, 2 Folk Art dolls from the 1960s, 3 christening dresses, 2 kimono, 2 Chinese temple banners, 3 Medieval fragments, 80+ quilts, 40 Dior dresses, 5 political pennants, an Asafo flag, and a Steelers banner!

Two pairs of hands carefully stitching lace onto a historic garment during textile conservation work.

Here are some of our highlights from 2022

How about starting the year with the SHROUD OF TURIN?  Exquisitely woven and imprinted facsimiles for an exhibition at the Museum of the Bible took 3 of us to press out creases. We had to keep checking our emotional reactions to these ‘powerful’ copies.

Julia studies a large historic textile laid out on a table, indicating areas of staining and loss where the fabric has deteriorated.
Julia and colleagues stand around a worktable with a large historic textile laid out on, indicating areas of staining and loss where the fabric has deteriorated.

And then a Jolly Roger Pirate flag – shiver me timbers!

Black flag with a stylized white skull and crossbones design mounted for display.

1968 Poor People’s Campaign Pennant, salvaged after the rally, now conserved and mounted.

Triangular pennant with a portrait of Martin Luther King Jr. and text commemorating the Poor People’s March on Washington, D.C.

Justice Brandeis Robe, circa 1930, which arrived in the studio the day after the Supreme Court Roe v Wade “memo leak.” What an honor to preserve this piece of American jurisprudence.

Textile conservator hand-sewing a black garment on a work table in a conservation studio.”
Dark gray robe with wide sleeves displayed on a mannequin against a light background.

Some of our favorite quilts were these three, made by our client’s great-grandmother.

Quilt with patterned fabric borders and a lifted corner revealing the inner batting and patchwork layers.
Quilt with pink paisley and plaid fabrics, with a corner lifted to reveal the inner patchwork layers.

Quilts inside of quilts, fabrics from 1900 to 1960s, embedded with secrets and stories and so much love.

A patchwork quilt made from small multicolored fabric scraps.
Patchwork quilt block with a multicolored star made from assorted patterned fabrics.

Spring Blossomed as we worked on the Hillwood Grace Kelly Dior exhibit.

Three textile conservators stand beside mannequins displaying elegant vintage-style dresses belonged to Princess Grace Kelly's collection in a gallery space.
Julia and colleague stand in front of Princess Grace Kelly's vintage dress collection during an installation preparation.
Julia and a friend pose in front of large illustrated panels showing stylized fashion designs.

Re-dressing the dancing dollies of Possum Trot for Smithsonian American Art Museum with Leah Bright.

Julia and a colleague carefully adjust a small garment on a mannequin in a textile conservation laboratory.
Two painted wooden dolls, two main characters in 'Possum Trot: The Life and Work of Calvin Black', dressed in colorful clothing displayed in a museum exhibit case.
Julia, Kaitlyn, and Katherine stand behind a table with two painted wooden dolls, the main characters in 'Two painted wooden dolls, two main characters in 'Possum Trot: The Life and Work of Calvin Black', dressed in colorful clothing.

Speaking of the stories woven into textiles, these three large Guatemalan embroideries are from a dynamic cooperative called Multicolores. We prepared them for display in the US Embassy in Guatemala City. (See more of the collections at Amy Kaslow Gallery)

A textile trainee stands smiling beside a large colorful textile artwork depicting stylized animals, plants, and geometric shapes.
Julia and colleagues pose smiling while standing in front of colorful textile artwork depicting animals, birds, flowers, and a central human figure.

These rare and exquisite silk brocade temple banners 18th c were extensively treated by Peyton during her summer internship.

Long decorative textile panel featuring repeating cream-colored dragons on a blue background, laid flat on a white surface.
A conservator works with fine scissors on a large Chinese gold-embroidered dragon textile laid flat on a conservation table.
Long decorative textile featuring repeating dragon motifs displayed on a white surface.

Installing the tour de force 30′ x 18′  MONUMENTAL by Sonya Clarke, at the Renwick Gallery

Four textile conservators carefully arranging a large woven textile on a display table in a gallery space.
Julia and colleagues carefully arrange a large woven textile on a display table in a gallery space.
Julia and colleagues carefully arranging a large woven textile on a display table in a gallery space.
Julia and artist Sonya Clark pose for a picture together in a gallery space.
Julia with artist Sonya Clarke

Kaitlyn visited the MET to see the Fannie Criss dresses she conserved, in the exhibit In America: An Anthology of Fashion.

Kaitlyn standing inside a museum atrium with a banner reading “In America: An Anthology of Fashion.”
Mannequins wearing historic garments arranged in a museum exhibit under a chandelier at the Met Museum.

A chance to examine and document the most stunning collection of Amish quilts, ever.

Quilt with a geometric tumbling-blocks pattern made from multicolored fabric pieces.
Patchwork quilt made from irregular strips of multicolored fabric with visible quilting stitches.
Quilt with repeating triangular patchwork blocks in green, black, and white forming geometric patterns.
A quilt with a red and pink starburst pattern surrounded by pastel blue and pink fabrics.
A quilt with multicolored diamond patches arranged diagonally against black fabric.
A patchwork quilt with red, purple, black, pink, and cream geometric blocks.
Close-up of a patchwork quilt with small triangular pieces in green, purple, blue, brown, and gold.
A quilt made from small triangles in red, purple, blue, brown, and green fabrics.
Quilt with red diamond pattern and small multicolored patchwork squares, framed by teal and purple borders.
Quilt block with multicolored triangle patchwork intersected by black bands forming an X with a blue center square.
Red quilt with a gray zigzag geometric pattern forming nested diamond shapes.
Abstract patchwork quilt with irregular geometric pieces in purple, blue, black, and multicolored fabrics.

This reminds us why we really love our work…because we get to pause, look deeply, hold and touch, repair, and care for such extraordinary pieces of textile art conveyed through the ages from those hands to our hands.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: America: An Anthology of Fashion, Asafo, Chinese temple banners, christening dresses, conservation, conservation treatments, Dior, Fannie Criss, Folk Art dolls, Guatemalan embroideries, Hillwood Grace Kelly Dior exhibit, Jolly Roger Pirate flag, Justice Brandeis Robe, kimono, Medieval fragments, MONUMENTAL by Sonya Clarke, Multicolores, Museum of the Bible, pennants, Poor People’s Campaign Pennant, Possum Trot, preservation, quilts, restoration, samplers, SHROUD OF TURIN, Smithsonian American Art Museum, Steelers banner, wedding veils

Comments

  1. sylvia gottwald says

    January 10, 2023 at 1:07 am

    WONDERFUL Congratulations!

    Reply
  2. Tess says

    January 10, 2023 at 1:36 am

    Wow!! Such a colorful year—it’s so fun to see the scope of your last year’s work. Congratulations to the whole team on this impressive collection of textiles you all have studied and cared for☺️

    Reply
  3. Amareswar Galla says

    January 10, 2023 at 1:41 am

    Dear Julia and Team Caring for Textiles,
    One of the beautiful things for us with you is connecting in a deep conversation Safeguarding Textile Heritage in September 2022. (http://ir.anu.edu.in:8080/xmlui/bitstream/handle/123456789/435/Heritage%2024.html?sequence=1&isAllowed=y)
    Inclusive Museum Research Network meets next in Vancouver: https://onmuseums.com/2023-conference
    All the best for 2023 for your amazing journey and contribution.
    Warmly,
    Amar

    Reply
  4. Jacqueline Butler-Diaz says

    January 10, 2023 at 2:23 am

    What a treat it must be to work so closely for a while with such interesting pieces.
    I wonder if, like me, it is hard to part with them when it is time to say goodbye.

    Reply
  5. Arlene Fleming says

    January 10, 2023 at 2:34 am

    Congratulations Julia to you and your team on such a productive, fascinating and a great diversity of projects!

    Reply
  6. Kim O'Neill says

    January 10, 2023 at 11:22 pm

    Hey Jules, what great work you and your team do! What a joyful endeavor. Congrats to you all !

    Reply

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