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And, scene: 2021 is a Wrap!

January 1, 2022 By Julia Brennan 8 Comments

In spite of the pandemic, we adjusted to new schedules, masks, and remained flexible as projects and exhibits kept changing…and as it turns out, we were very busy! Though it wasn’t actual travel, we did experience intense time traveling and explored the world—through textiles.

Here’s a look back at some of the textiles that kept us stitching and steaming along in 2021…and a sneak peek at what is to come in 2022…

Wishing everyone a sensationally sparkling new year!

Hillwood – Roaring 20’s

So much fun to work on-site at Hillwood preparing and building mannequins for lavish beaded stylish 20’s dresses.

Julia and colleagues standing beside mannequins displaying historic garments prepared for exhibition in a conservation workspace.
  • Mannequin displaying a pale silk evening ensemble with draped bodice, beaded embellishments, and patterned panels in a museum gallery.
  • Mannequin displaying a pale silk evening gown with large embroidered floral motifs and a fur-trimmed cape in a museum exhibit.
  • Museum display featuring two silk evening gowns on mannequins, including one with a blue satin panel and another with tiered tulle ruffles.
  • Julia and colleague carefully dressing a mannequin in a silk evening gown with tiered tulle ruffles during gallery installation.

Papier

Stunning paper costumes and creations by BEA SZENFELD at the House of Sweden, Washington DC. Bea has designed paper couture for Lady Gaga and Bjork. Even though these costumes were made of paper, the artist wanted the gentle hand of a textile conservator to carefully fold, collapse, pack, and protect. We were lucky to work with Bea, via zoom, our first virtually guided de- installation.

Bea has ‘birthed’ many paper babies, of stacked- and strung-together paper circles—and each with a unique name. Even though the babies are paper, they have weight and move. These babies came to life in our arms, as we tenderly lifted, cradled, and tucked each one into a soft box for traveling.

  • Julia unpacking a fragile object from bubble wrap inside a shipping crate.
  • Museum gallery displaying sculptural garments and paper-based artworks, with a large floor installation in the center.
  • Julia positioning a sculptural figure made of layered paper as part of a gallery installation.
  • Kaitlyn adjusting a sculptural garment made of folded paper forms during exhibition installation.
  • Kaitlyn adjusting a sculptural garment made of folded paper forms during exhibition installation.

Shawbaker Flag 1860, Frederick City Hall

An 8-month long project coordinated with 5 other partners, including a painter, conservator, framer, art shipper and installer, Frederick Art Commission…and a summer intern from Shippensburg College. It was an intense treatment and remounting and final re-framing of an important piece of history for Frederick Maryland. Our blog is forthcoming, stay tuned.

  • A textile conservator examines the edge of the historic Star-Spangled Banner of Frederick, Maryland, at Caring For Textile studio.
  • Julia and colleague examine and stabilize the Star-Spangled Banner of Frederick, Maryland laid out on a large worktable.
  • Two conservators pin sheer support fabric over the red and white stripes of the Star-Spangled Banner of Frederick, Maryland on a worktable.
Julia and colleagues stand beside the framed, restored Star-Spangled Banner of Frederick, Maryland displayed on a museum wall.

Mr. B’s Quilts, 1920s–1960s

Made by his great-grandma, grandmother, and aunt and passed through the family. Mr. B remembers cuddling under them as a child. One had a surprise! It is a peek-a-boo—a quilt inside a quilt. Not wanting to waste, his grandmother created a new quilt cover in the 1960s around a beloved but very worn-out older one. The fabrics in these quilts lead to clear dating.

  • A patchwork quilt composed of small multicolored fabric pieces arranged in geometric patterns.
  • A patchwork quilt featuring multicolored star blocks separated by blue plaid sashing.
  • A quilt with the outer patterned fabric lifted to reveal layered patchwork pieces, stitching, and interior batting.
  • Quilt top made from large rectangular panels of assorted patterned and solid fabrics arranged in a patchwork layout.
  • A quilt with the top patterned fabric lifted to show interior batting and layered textile construction.

Yugoslavian embroidered traditional dress

Purchased in Zagreb in 1972 by our client while on an epic family world trip. She wore it for her Los Angeles HS Prom in 1975! The cream-colored and brightly embroidered linen had become significantly stained brown and foxed. Through careful cleaning, maybe her daughter or grandchildren will want to wear it for their prom someday.

  • Stained white blouse featuring pleated front panels and floral embroidered sleeves, documented with a color calibration card.
  • Treated white blouse featuring pleated front panels and floral embroidered sleeves, documented with a color calibration card.
  • Stained white pleated skirt with embroidered floral border at the hem, photographed with a color calibration card.
  • Treated white pleated skirt with embroidered floral border at the hem, photographed with a color calibration card.

Adam & Eve Sampler

This 1700s needle art of silk on wool is such an unusual deco-style 1930s graphic of the muscular biblical couple…

  • An embroidered sampler showing Adam and Eve beneath a tree with animals and decorative motifs.
  • An embroidered sampler showing Adam and Eve beneath a tree with animals and decorative motifs.
Julia and colleague carefully positioning a historic embroidered sampler on a mounting board at a conservation work table.

The Robert A. Facchina Italian American Museum of Washington, DC

This new museum celebrates the Italian community in DC. The exhibits contain great local storytelling—especially the enormous contribution to DC’s Federal landscape—think marble and stonework of so many of the government buildings, and the churches including the National Cathedral.

Mannequin displaying a black-and-white fashion ensemble with patterned jacket, wide-leg pants, and accessories, designed by Franca Bartoli, Italian American Museum.
  • Museum exhibit featuring a map of Washington, D.C., highlighting Italian cultural and architectural influences in the city at Italian American Museum.
  • Framed religious processional banners featuring painted images of the Virgin Mary and the Holy Family displayed at Italian American Museum.

Dynamic 60’s Wall Hanging by Brasilian artist Genaro de Carvalho

Bought by my beloved friend Kitty Hempstone on a 1960’s road trip. We cleaned, restored, and remounted it so that her grandchildren can enjoy it and imagine the stories Kitty would have told them.

Textile conservator working at a table to mount a Brazilian textile wall hanging using pins and tools.
Brazilian textile wall hanging featuring bold abstract flowers, birds, and geometric shapes on a red background.

Painted Portrait Scarf, Korean War, 1950s

Remarkable realistic portrait a US soldier had made of his beloved wife far at home. This is a love cloth,  so tender and personal;  her glamorous image is surrounded by the flowers and famous attractions of Korea. A real family treasure.

  • Julia examining and treating a painted silk scarf on a padded work surface.
  • Painted silk scarf with a central portrait of a woman surrounded by an eagle, crown, flowers, and international motifs.

Stratford Hall ‘housewif’ 18th c silk embroidered sewing kit

This typical silk embroidered 3-dimensional case was an essential accessory for a lady of that time. Why a ‘housewif’? The term was purportedly first found in print in 1749 and refers to a portable sewing kit often used by male soldiers to repair their clothing. It might contain needles, pins, buttons, thread and show off her excellent stitching skills. Ripped, fragmented, and silk and trim falling off—this was a complex treatment to put it back together so that it looked whole and could be gently displayed.

  • An embroidered historic needlework case featuring floral motifs, decorative sequins, and a metal clasp on a silk fabric cover.
  • Silk needlework case decorated with floral embroidery, sequins, and a central monogram.
  • Hands using a small tool to examine or treat a historic embroidered textile supported by tissue and a padded weight.
  • Textile fragments secured with cotton straps inside a conservation storage box.

Christening Gown made from WWII Parachute Silk, National Museum of the Marine Corps

In August of 1945, a U.S. Navy fighter plane dropped a small parachute over the Japanese prisoner of war camp in Niigata Japan with the message, “Hang on boys. You’ll be back in the States soon.” The parachute was pocketed by Private First-Class William H. Chittenden who brought it back home when the POW camp was liberated in September 1945. His mother fashioned the parachute into an infant’s baptismal dress which was worn by all 3 of Chittenden’s children.

His survival of WWII and his blessings for the next generations through this piece of cloth are a remarkable story. While wedding dresses of parachute silk are more common, this was the first time we encountered a christening dress made fashioned from a parachute.

  • Close-up of historic white silk christening gown showing puffed sleeves and ruffled lace trim along the front.
  • A white silk christening gown with short puffed sleeves, ruffled trim, and lace edging displayed on a mannequin.

1916 Pullman Coupe Deluxe for Women

This exquisite jewel box of a car with its deep forest green exterior and green and gold silk and wool upholstery, roller blinds and curtains…is one of a kind. The advertisement says it is possible to “learn to drive this elegant alluring $900 car in 30 minutes.” ‘Tailored for Her Majesty, the American Woman. The De Luxe Coupe is built to reflect the refined smartness of Milady of Today. A well-groomed, thoroughbred car…graceful in design and finished in the best of taste.”

Kaitlyn felt like Cinderella pre-ball, as she folded herself into the small vehicle for hours (days, really!) of cleaning and repairs. By the end of the treatment, the transformation was complete and glamorous once again; Kaitlyn and the Pullman are ready for the ball.

  • Textile conservator inspecting the upholstered seat inside a historic Pullman car during restoration.
  • Early Pullman automobile displayed in a museum gallery with a conservator visible inside working on the vehicle’s interior.
  • Textile conservator inspecting the upholstered seat inside a historic Pullman car during restoration.
  • Textile conservator stitching upholstery inside a historic Pullman automobile during restoration.
Vintage 1916 advertisement promoting the Pullman De Luxe Coupe automobile.

Filed Under: News

Comments

  1. James O'Hearn says

    January 1, 2022 at 11:22 pm

    As usually your finished work is exceptional, it is always so enjoyable to see and attempt to understand. I am so very grateful that there are people with your talents and abilities.
    Hopefully your need to restore fabrics will always be necessary, thanks for sharing this year’s beautiful work. Good luck in 2022!

    Reply
  2. Pam says

    January 2, 2022 at 12:03 am

    What a wonderful year you and your colleagues have enjoyed, Julia!
    Congratulations & many thanks for sharing.
    May 2022 bring you similar riches.
    Warmly, Pam

    Reply
  3. Rebecca Stevens says

    January 2, 2022 at 3:43 am

    Looks like an interesting year with needle and thread!

    StY safe and enjoy the projects in the new year.

    Reply
  4. Betsy Fisher says

    January 2, 2022 at 1:16 pm

    Dear Julia,

    The stories told through cloth amaze me, and the skill and love that goes into preserving the stories is as impressive. Thank you and your team for bringing tales to life with needle, thread, and devotion. Looking forward to seeing you in 2022!

    Yours,

    Betsy

    Reply
  5. Anita Randall says

    January 2, 2022 at 5:57 pm

    Oh, the stories these projects do tell!! Your work is amazing and so intriguing; we get transported into other places and times. Your diligence and skills help bring these textiles alive again and draw us into those worlds. Thank you.

    Reply
  6. Barbara S. Harvey says

    January 2, 2022 at 6:10 pm

    Julia: A fascinating account of your year and your work. Amazing skill. Must be rewarding personally and professionally to restore these historic and beautiful pieces.

    Best wishes for the New Year,
    Barbara

    Reply
  7. Jannes J Gibson says

    January 2, 2022 at 10:57 pm

    So beautifully documented – I loved seeing this diary of the work of you and your team Julia.
    Happy New Year to all
    Jannes

    Reply
  8. Ariel Caruso says

    January 4, 2022 at 4:06 pm

    Congratulations on a busy year! Loved learning about some of the interesting projects you worked on. Hope to see you all again soon!

    Reply

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